Importance of Humectants on dry skin?
When I first started doing research to make a cream for my then husband, I came across words like humectants, occlusives, and emollients. It was confusing definitely confusing and this is why I decided to write this post to explain what humectants are and why you need them, especially if you have dry skin.
What are humectants?
Exactly what is are humectants? A humectant is a hygroscopic (moisture-loving) substance used to add moisture to food and cosmetics. Humectants are used in hair and skin formulations due to their ability to draw water from the atmosphere. This helps the skin and hair retain moisture and avoid moisture loss. There are quite a few humectants used in cosmetics such as sorbitol, glycerin, Honey, Hyaluronic Acid, Aloe vera . Here is a list of humectants used in A Mermaid’s Grace products:
Glycerin
Honey
Hyaluronic acid
Aloe Vera
Why are humectants used in lotions and creams?
The stratum corneum (outer layer of the epidermis) contains a high concentration of water-soluble, low molecular weight compounds made up of: amino acids, urea, and lactic acid. These low molecular compounds are collectively known as Natural Moisturizing Factor or NMF. The role of the NMF is to absorb moisture from the atmosphere to the point of dissolving in their own absorbed moisture. It thereby acts as a very efficient humectant which allows the outermost layers of the Stratum Corneum to retain moisture.
Studies have shown that people who suffer from dry skin conditions have altered or missing natural moisturizing factor (NMF). Because of the missing or altered NMF, people with dry skin conditions need lotions and creams with humectants and a combination of other ingredients in order to retain moisture and prevent their skin from drying out and being super uncomfortable.
According to research, glycerin is a far superior humectant when it comes to dry skin and that is why it is my favorite. A study published in the International Journal of Cosmetics found that it took 6 days for glycerin to completely desorb (be released) from human stratum Corneum.
This means that glycerin effects(which are beneficial) would still be felt 6 days after the initial use of a solution containing glycerin. Additionally, glycerin helps slow water loss from the skin which is something people with dry skin constantly struggle with.
Can you use humectants by themselves?
If humectant are so good, why can’t you use by itself. Wouldn’t that make things simpler? I’m right there with you. Humectants are kind of tricky. They attract water/moisture to themselves. If you were to use glycerin by itself, your skin would feel dry. If you found yourself in desperate position and glycerin or honey is all you had to moisturize your skin, you would need to mix it with water.
In addition to needing moisture, dry skin needs an emollient (basically oil) to seal in the moisture. This is another reason you shouldn’t use humectants on their own.